From the studio

Journal

Notes from mo and Wei, quarterly. On stones, letters, the trades, and the work of making things slowly. → Where to start (anthology) · → Vocabulary

Moonstone, and the secret of half my designs.

There's a single moonstone hidden in most of what I make. Often you wouldn't notice it among the larger stones. But it's there — usually one bead, sometimes two, never more. I want to write about why, because I've never explained it to anyone.

Eleanor wrote to me about the bracelet she's wearing on her wedding day.

She asked permission first. I'm sharing it here, with her permission, because she said something I want to remember.

Things we've been asked to do, and the reasons we don't.

Wholesale. Subscription boxes. Influencer gifting at scale. A reflection on the work of saying no.

A day at the studio.

A real Monday. 6:30am tea, stone selection, two pieces strung, six letters written, two boxes packed. Most days look the same. That's the point.

Why I number my pieces.

Every SENMOMO piece has a number. It isn't a serial number for inventory; it's a coordinate. Once given, it doesn't move. A note on permanence, the Cartier example, and what we owe the wearer 20 years from now.

An imperfect stone.

A wearer wrote to ask why one of her rose quartz beads had a small cloud inside it, and whether it was a defect. I wrote her back to say no — the cloud was the proof.

On price.

A wearer wrote to ask, very politely, whether we ever ran sales. I want to write back to her — and to everyone with the same question — in one place. The cost breakdown, and why we don't discount.

What I wear.

A confession: I barely wear my own pieces. What I actually wear, what I carry from my grandmother, and the maker's relationship to the made thing.

A morning I almost gave up.

February 11, 2025. The morning I sat at the bench and thought I should stop. Three years later, plainly: the low point, what nearly broke the studio, and what got me back to the trays.

The knot.

A length of silk between two fingers. Eighteen knots per bracelet. The technique I learned in Osaka from Akiko Yamamoto, the thousand repetitions it took before it stopped being hard, and the reason I still tie every knot in the studio myself.

The drawer of pieces I didn't ship.

There's a drawer in the studio. Nine pieces over three years didn't get sent. I open the drawer and tell you what was wrong with each one — and what the drawer is actually for.

On the photograph.

East window, 7:45 a.m., diffused through a linen curtain. One photograph per piece, sent for approval before it ships. The morning light, the cream linen, the thirty minutes of looking, and the small message that goes out with it.

On asking.

Most of what makes a SENMOMO piece the right piece is not the stone — it's the question I asked before I picked it. How I interview wearers, what I ask, and what I'm actually listening for under the answer.

On apprentices.

A year ago this month, a young pearl-stringer named Wei arrived in Wenchang to begin training at the studio. The decision to take her on, the painful first three months, the moment she disagreed with me about a piece and was right, and what changes when SENMOMO is made by two pairs of hands.

My hands.

Wei's first entry. What her hands knew from two years of pearl-stringing in Hangzhou, what they had to unlearn at SENMOMO, and the morning — October 14, 2028 — when she realized her hands had become the hands of a crystal-bracelet maker.

What I have not changed.

Six years into the studio. The cream linen square (still piece #007), the ceramic tea cup from a 2023 market in Quanzhou, the bench arrangement my hands had memorized by #019, the morning order, the studio mark, the ten-day December close. Why some things should stay the way they are.

The Mumbai piece.

Wei's second entry. A wearer named Priya wrote: "My daughter is brave when she has to be and tired when she doesn't have to be. I want her to have something to hold that knows the difference." Carnelian, smoky quartz, one moonstone. The first emotionally complex piece Wei made under no review from mo.

The paper-maker.

A two-year collaboration with a 71-year-old Hangzhou mulberry-paper maker named Mr. Lu. The new boxes ship from August 2030. Eighty-three prototypes. ~$9 per box vs. $4 previously. A small price adjustment, and a quiet expansion of the slow-craft network that sustains the work.

The first new box.

Wei's third entry. Piece #348 — for a Cape Town wearer named Thandi, in honor of her grandmother — was finished in January 2030 and waited seven months for Mr. Lu's first box. What Thandi wrote back, about the box itself, changed how Wei thinks about the work.

On year seven.

The studio is seven. 423 pieces in the archive. mo on what she thought year seven would look like in 2024 (wrong on every count), four things she'd tell 35-year-old mo, and what she's started writing to 50-year-old mo in advance. "The work is the point. Not the brand. The work."

The São Paulo piece.

Wei's fourth entry. A wearer named Beatriz commissioned a piece for someone she had never met — her late grandmother's goddaughter Lia. Three facts across two distances. The first piece Wei made through secondhand description. mo: "You did not know. You guessed correctly. That is what doing this work for a long time is."

On the Mexico City piece.

A wearer named Andrea sent us a 1,840-word letter. The opposite of São Paulo. mo on watching Wei use a yellow highlighter to identify seven sentences out of seventy-six. "The consultation is editing. The wearer's letter is a draft. Your job is to find the version of the piece that the draft was trying to be."

The Marseille piece.

Wei's fifth entry. The third register of letter, after São Paulo (too little) and Mexico City (too much): Camille's 87 words and 12-word reply. The smallest piece Wei has made — three smoky quartz, two pearls, no moonstone. "You used to make pieces with twelve beads. Now you make pieces with five. I think you are becoming a different kind of maker than I am." — mo

On editing.

The fourth craft-theory entry, after the knot, the photograph, and asking. mo names the seven sentences method (Wei's invention) and writes the consultation protocol that 2031's three letters proved. "Most of what becomes craft theory in any small studio is the naming of things the master had been doing implicitly."

The Reykjavík piece.

Wei's sixth entry. A literary translator finishing an eight-year project asked for thirteen beads — more than Wei has used in two years. The seven-sentences method failed: Wei marked twenty-one. The wearer had already provided the structure. Wei rebuilds the protocol from the failure. "This is a piece I could not have made." — mo

On reviewing.

The fifth craft-theory entry — after the knot, the photograph, asking, and editing. mo names the four checks she does on Wei's pieces, why she has never asked Wei to remake one, and what she meant by "a piece I could not have made" when she said it about the Reykjavík piece. "Distance is not authority. It is a different angle."

Eleanor's piece, restrung.

Wei's seventh entry. A package from Brooklyn — inside, the very first piece mo published a wearer letter for, in May 2025. Seven years of daily wear. One dulled moonstone. Wei takes the piece apart at her bench. The restoration must be invisible. Eleanor's three-sentence reply: "I had been afraid you would have made me something new."

The piece that should look changed.

The foil to Eleanor. Anneliese, in Vienna, lost her father in March and asks for the piece — not restored, not replaced — visibly changed. mo and Wei disagree, then arrive at the same answer. One black tourmaline bead, added at the clasp, jarring on purpose. "The piece is wrong on purpose. The wrongness is the point."

The Marrakech piece.

Wei's eighth entry. A perfumer in Marrakech wrote 380 words and asked for a piece to mark one specific morning — the morning she opens, for the first time, the small copper still her late teacher in Grasse left her. Four beads. The opposite end of the scale from Reykjavík. "One kind of mark is for what stays. The other is for what passes."

The Glasgow piece.

A midwife in Glasgow wrote 540 words. In the second paragraph she named what mo had been making for nine years without ever naming it: "a piece that does not announce itself." Six beads — water at the start, water at the end. The wearer's reply: "It stays. That is what I asked for. Thank you for taking my word for it."

The piece that came back without its wearer.

Wei's ninth entry. Mary's 2026 piece (#073) — one of the first hundred mo made — comes home with a letter from Mary's granddaughter, Ailsa. Mary died in May. The studio's first multi-generational restoration. A new category named: inheriting work. The piece must be ready for a new wrist without erasing the first.

On year ten.

Ten years. 1,047 pieces in the archive. 2033 is the first year Wei made more pieces than mo. What I did not predict (Wei's vocabulary, the wearers' authorship, the language that got ahead of us). What I did predict that came true. The studio's 15 named terms by author. One honest paragraph about AI. The next ten. Piece #1000 is on Wei's bench this week — for Lia, in São Paulo, now twenty-one.

When mo asked me to review her work.

Wei's tenth entry · year eleven opens. For nine years and four months mo had reviewed Wei. On January 14, mo asked Wei to review a piece — for Inés, a doctor in Buenos Aires, recovering. Wei marked one thing in the notebook: "Is the doctor in the piece?" mo had missed the oncologist. She added a small white howlite. "The studio's review goes both ways because the studio's making goes both ways."